The Burger’s Best Bottle Is Crozes-Hermitage

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A properly made burger is a serious thing: well-seasoned beef cooked with a dark crust, melted cheese, a soft bun and something sharp, such as pickles, raw onion or mustard. It is rich, salty and savoury. Most people reach for whatever red is open. The better choice is a Syrah from the Northern Rhône.

Why Crozes-Hermitage

Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation of the Northern Rhône, surrounding the famous hill of Hermitage on the Rhône’s eastern bank. Its Syrah is fresh and savoury, with dark fruit, black olive, smoked meat and a signature note of black pepper. Those flavours echo the charred, seasoned beef. Its acidity cuts through cheese and fat, and its tannins are firm without the heaviness of a big New World Cabernet or Shiraz.

In short, it tastes like the crust on the meat.

At the Table

Keep the burger classic: a well-seasoned patty, aged cheddar or Comté, and pickles. Ketchup-heavy or very sweet sauces work against the wine. Serve the Crozes at about 16°C (61°F), slightly cooler than room temperature.

The Bottles

Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2021

The estate that did more than any other to establish the reputation of the appellation. Peppery, fresh and quietly profound, it lifts a burger into a dinner. Shop it at Wine.com.

E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage 2021

A reliable, rounder Syrah from the leading house of the Northern Rhône, ideal for a backyard cookout. Shop it at Wine.com.

One Rule

Salt the meat, toast the bun, and open the Syrah before the grill is hot.

The Pairing is Santé’s daily column on one dish and the wine that makes it better. A new pairing every evening.