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Ceviche is a dish of sharp edges: raw fish cured in lime juice with red onion, chilli and coriander, sometimes served with sweet potato or toasted corn. Its acidity defeats most wines, which taste flat or sour beside it. The answer lies on another Atlantic coast.
Why Albariño
Albariño from Rías Baixas, in Galicia on Spain’s north-western coast, grows within reach of the Atlantic. It is bright and aromatic, with citrus, white peach and a distinct saline edge. Its acidity is high enough to match the lime rather than being overwhelmed by it. The saltiness echoes the sea. And its aromatic lift picks up the coriander and onion.
Oaky whites fight the lime; aromatic but low-acid whites taste flabby. Albariño has the balance ceviche needs.
At the Table
Cure the fish briefly, just until the edges turn opaque, and serve immediately. Pour the Albariño cold, around 8 to 10°C (46 to 50°F). If the chilli is fierce, choose the fresher, lighter bottle.
The Bottles
Familia Torres Pazo das Bruxas Albariño 2025
The Torres family’s Galician project, bright and citrus-led, for a classic lime-and-chilli ceviche. Shop it at Wine.com.
Terras Gauda Abadía de San Campio Albariño 2025
A more textured, mineral style for ceviche made with richer fish, or served with avocado. Shop it at Wine.com.
One Rule
Make the ceviche last and serve it first.
The Pairing is Santé’s daily column on one dish and the wine that makes it better. A new pairing every evening.
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