Osso Buco and Valpolicella Ripasso

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Osso buco is Milanese comfort at its finest: cross-cut veal shanks braised in white wine and stock until the marrow turns soft and rich, finished with gremolata, a bright mix of lemon zest, garlic and parsley. It is usually served with saffron risotto. Rich, aromatic and fresh all at once, it needs a red that can manage all three.

Why Ripasso

Valpolicella Ripasso is made by passing young Valpolicella over the dried-grape skins left after making Amarone. The second fermentation adds body, depth and flavours of dried cherry and spice, while the wine keeps the freshness and moderate tannin of Valpolicella. It is richer than a simple red but less heavy than Amarone.

That balance suits the dish. The wine’s depth meets the marrow and braising juices; its acidity matches the gremolata; its tannin is gentle enough for veal.

At the Table

Do not skip the gremolata: it makes the dish and the pairing. Serve the Ripasso at 16 to 17°C (61 to 63°F), opened half an hour before dinner.

The Bottles

Speri Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2023

From a long-established Valpolicella family estate, a balanced, cherry-scented Ripasso for a traditional osso buco. Shop it at Wine.com.

Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2021

From one of the region’s best-known houses, a fuller, rounder Ripasso with the depth to match a rich saffron risotto alongside. Shop it at Wine.com.

One Rule

Give everyone a small spoon for the marrow.

The Pairing is Santé’s daily column on one dish and the wine that makes it better. A new pairing every evening.