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Peking duck is a dish of contrasts: shattering, lacquered skin; rich, dark meat; the cool crunch of cucumber and scallion; the sweet, salty depth of hoisin, all wrapped in a thin pancake. It needs a wine that can handle fat without overwhelming the delicate parts of the plate.
Why Pinot Noir
Duck and Pinot Noir is one of the oldest rules in wine pairing, and it holds. Pinot has bright acidity to cut the fat, red-fruit flavours that work with the plum-like sweetness of hoisin, and tannins fine enough to leave the crisp skin intact. A big, oaky, tannic red would turn the hoisin bitter and bury the cucumber.
Oregon’s Willamette Valley is the right place to look. Its Pinot Noir sits between the ripe fruit of California and the savoury restraint of Burgundy, with enough fruit for the sauce and enough acidity for the meat.
At the Table
Go lightly on the hoisin, and let the duck carry the dish. Serve the Pinot at cellar temperature, about 14 to 15°C (57 to 59°F). A slight chill sharpens the fruit and refreshes the palate between pancakes.
The Bottles
Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir 2024
The Drouhin family of Beaune brought Burgundian sensibility to the Dundee Hills, and this is the house’s signature: poised, fragrant and ideal for the classic duck service. Shop it at Wine.com.
Roserock by Drouhin Oregon Zéphirine Pinot Noir 2022
From the family’s Eola-Amity Hills estate, a site cooled by Pacific winds. A more structured, darker-fruited bottle for a whole roast duck rather than pancakes. Shop it at Wine.com.
One Rule
Carve at the table. The skin will never be crisper, and the wine will never be better matched.
The Pairing is Santé’s daily column on one dish and the wine that makes it better. A new pairing every evening.
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