The Dozen This Month Wine

Along the Boot

A small sampling of wines from up and down the Italian Peninsula.

In our first – and possibly only –geography class we learned that Italy is a long peninsula that is shaped like a boot. And at the toe of the boot, the island of Sicily rests like a football ready to be punted, which we learned in world history was often the case.

As fans of good to great wines, we later learned that each part of the boot features different grapes and different flavors. This The Dozen has a handful of those wines, from Piemonte in the north to Sicily in the south – hardly enough to be a primer of all the country has to offer, but perhaps an incentive to be more explorative, as we are talking geography, after all.

This issue also has an excellent Napa Valley Cabernet and a couple of fresh, new aperitifs worthy of sipping.

2023 Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($25). A surprisingly light wine with pleasant, fragrant apple flavors that are just right – not too ripe and not too tart.

2020 Jermann “Vintage Tunina” Venezia Giulia Blanco ($70). Lots of spritz, with tart lime and kiwi flavors – very refreshing.

2021 Franciscan California Cabernet Sauvignon ($15). Nice, well-made Cab with brambly red fruits like young blackberries and a long finish. The price is also attractive.

2021 Brancaia “Ilatraia” Toscano Rosso ($70). A Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet  Franc blend – a mellow, lightly pungent wine with red raspberry fruits and a pleasant tangy finish, although one that vanishes a bit quickly.

2020 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico ($83). A great combo of lightly tart blackberry and blueberry fruits with savory tannins and lean acidity – very long on the palate.

2020 Duca di Salaparuta “Duca Enrico” Sicilia Nero d’Avola ($90). An excellent Nero with ripe but not heavy black raspberry flavors framed by great structure and acidity.

2019 Guerrieri Gonzaga “San Leonardo” Vigneti delle Dolomiti Red Wine ($100).  A Bordeaux blend that is lean and very structured with mild fruits and lots of savory notes.

2019 Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore ($120). Such a beautiful and at times stunning red with lush dark cherry fruit at the opening following by an intense finish of leather, dried cherries and savory and supple tannins.

2020 Paul Hobbs “Nathan Coombs Estate” Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon ($120).  An excellent red that rides on its delicious savory notes as much as its dried fruitiness – long, lean, complex and very age-worthy.

Paramour “Cara-Cara” Orange Aperitif ($39). With this and its sibling that follows, Paramour is trying to refresh the aperitif category – flavored wines that can be made into cocktails or sipper over ice. This one has smooth but sweet orange flavors with a touch of bitters and a hint of tartness.

Paramour Elderflower Aperitif ($39). Like its companion above, smooth and sweet but with a more-complex and more-herbal taste profile.

Santa Teresa “1796 Special Edition” Venezuela Rum Arabica Coffee Cask Finish ($52). Very enjoyable light caramel and cracked grain flavors of a traditional rum with a good espresso jolt of coffee flavors – sip with or without ice. (46% ABV).

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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