Verdicchio, Anyone?

This edition of the Double Dozen offers an interesting mix of wines – reds from California, of course, pinks from Provence, Douro reds from Portugal, sparking wines from Champagne and England – but I’d like to call special attention to a few Verdicchio varietals from the Marche area of central Italy. (And how many different white grapes can you name from Italy that begin with “V?”)

Verdicchio has often been overlooked because so much of it is inexpensive, but increasingly producers of the Verdicchip dei Castelli di Jesi region are putting more effort into the grape and diversifying its tastes by aging it longer and working differently with it in the cellar. If you aren’t familiar with it, give it a try, especially the ones beyond entry level.

Finally, the photo above is from the Goosecross winery in Napa Valley, which is also represented among our 24.

2022 Umani Ronchi “CaSal di Serra” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore ($21).  A nice, light, entry-level Verdicchio – enjoyable, though not complex.

2021 Romeo “Sempre Vive” Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc Reserve ($34). A toasty, buttery Chard, but one fairly well balanced with acidity and fruit flavors.

2023 Voon Sta. Rita Hills Grüner Veltliner ($38). Refreshing, but firm green fruit, lime primarily, with good structure and some minerality.

2023 Goosecross Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($39). Ultra-green flavors of lime and boxwood, but with a creamier, more-substantial delivery systems than most Kiwi Sauvignons.

2021 Umani Ronchi “Vecchie Vigne” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore ($39). Very nice – clean, elegant and floral with apple flavors, lots of minerality, light tannins, good texture.

2021 Umani Ronchi “Plenio” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva ($40). More citrus than apple, lean flavors and again lots of minerality.

2022 Voon Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay ($48). Well-made and somewhat complex – a little floral, a touch of oxygen on the fruit to give it that apple maturity, some cloves, along with a satisfying finish.

2019 Umani Ronchi “Historical” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi  Classico Superiore ($95). What a little aging will do to the grape – rounded apple flavors, a bit like Chardonnay, but more herbal and with more minerality.

2022 Atlantis Madeireuse Rosé ($19). From  Madeira – the island of fortified wines – this medium-bodied pink has fragrant bright fruits, lot of minerality, tannins around the edges and strawberries in the finish.

2023 J. De Villebois Sancerre Rosé ($30). Lovely fragrances, very strawberry, satiny more than silky, a substantial food wine.

2022 Rumor Côtes de Provence Rosé ($30). Medium-bodied, quite silky, lightly flavored, with most of the strawberries in the finish.

2023 Goosecross “Rosé for Lucy” Napa Valley Rosé ($39). Love this wine – flavors of strawberries with savory notes, a touch of chalk, little tannin, long finish.

NV Loimer Österreich Glüchliches Rosé ($45). Low in alcohol (10+%), it’s light and tangy with some woody notes to go with the tart cherry flavors.

NV Coates & Seely England Brut Reserve ($38). Rich, but not heavy, slightly yeasty with light, gamey flavors – a very good sparkling to start the evening.

Bollinger PN AYC 18 Champagne ($140). The base reserve is 2018 with additions back to 2009. Lovely rich brioche and nutty flavors with a great line of tart acidity running through it. Looking to celebrate?

2022 Octopoda California Cabernet Franc ($18). Very pleasant muddled red berry flavors, though a bit soft at the end.

2020 Symington “Comboio do Vesuvio” Douro Red Wine ($24). Very nice everyday red, with muted red fruits that are nevertheless a little tart and a little spicy – the kind of wine that makes you go searching for food, preferably grilled.

2022 Ornellaia “Le Volte dell’ Ornellaia” Toscana Red Wine ($27). Mix of black and red fruits – mainly juicy cherries – slightly tangy and tart, long on the palate, with dusty tannins.

2021 Symington “Pombal de  Vesuvio” Douro Red Wine ($33). Exotic fruit aromas with spicy, floral red fruits, medium body, good structure.

2021 Syncline “Cuvee Elena” Columbia Valley Red Wine ($59). Syrah-dominated Rhone blend with fragrant black and red raspberry fruits and with great acidity to make you want to check your watch to see if it’s dinner time.

2021 Mark Ryan Winery “Long Haul” Columbia Valley Red Wine ($65). Smooth, light and elegant – lightly creamy, lingering dark cherries with mild tannins and very light barrel notes.

2021 Voon Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($68). Pleasant Pinot with soft cherry fruitiness, good structure, bitters around the edges.

2021 Symington Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Red Wine ($90). Lots of tart red fruit flavors, quite intense, with lots of acidity and enjoyable barrel flavors.

Revivalist Garden Gin ($35). At 42% ABV, A lovely sipping gin, more floral that herbal, not overpowered by juniper, lightly sweet, medium body – the afternoon equivalent of an English tea.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.