The Dozen This Month Wine

In the Alps

Valtellina reds from near the Swiss border give a different look at Nebbiolo.

The Valtellina region of Lombardy near the Swiss border is one of the world’s most mountainous and one that provides a different look and taste to Nebbiolo and its many clones.

Like cold-climate Pinot Noirs, these Alpine Nebbiolos (locally called Chiavennasca) are leaner and more bracing than what you’ll find in Piemonte and have a lighter, yet intense, fruitiness. We have three of them from Tenuta Scerscé, whose vineyards are shown in the above photo.

2022 LangeTwins “Jahant Woods 01 Vineyard” Jahant Fume Blanc ($22). From the Lodi region, this Sauvignon has a pure, clean texture with good flavors of pear and citrus and a hint of cream in the finish.

2022 Appassionata “Uber” Chehalem Mountains Sauvignon Blanc ($40). This one is for green fruit lovers – weedy, crisp, linear with a bracing finish of lime and green herbal notes.

2022 J Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($40). Delicious mellow apple flavors with hints of candied fruit and touches of fresh orange juice.

2023 Rombauer Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay ($42). For better or worse, Rombauer is the benchmark for lightly sweet apple flavors with plenty of toast in the finish.

2022 Early Mountain Virginia Petit Manseng ($65). Virginia has found it makes wine from this grape better than they do in its native Southwest France, here with vibrant apple and apple- skin flavors, metallic minerality and bright acidity.

2019 Scerscé “Incanto” Sassella Valtellina Superiore ($30). Very light in weight but with flavors of dark raspberries and a very lean for food friendliness.

2022 Chamisal Vineyards San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir ($38). Smooth, long on the palate, somewhat lean with haunting raspberry flavors.

2023 Scerscé “Nettare” Rosso di Valtellina ($52). Almost nouveau-like with its fresh black cherry fruitiness, except there are more tannins here.

2018 Scerscé “Infinito” Sforzato di Valtellina Nebbiolo ($60). From dried grapes, enjoyable flavors of cherries and some cranberries with great depth of flavors and a crisp, slightly gamey finish.

2021 Early Mountain “Quaker Run Vineyard” Virginia Cabernet Franc ($85). Lovely dark fruit aromas, smooth on the palate with rich flavors of black raspberries and baking spices.

Cockburn’s “No. 1” Special Reserve Porto ($25). A perfect ruby Port for those looking for an affordable everyday Port with rich, creamy fruitiness – or for someone needing an intro into the category.

Jura 14-YO American Rye Cask Single Malt Scotch Whisky ($75). Smooth as satin with mellow cracked grain and honeycomb flavors to go with the lightly peated smokiness – delectable!

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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