Culinary Coffee This Month Vol. 27 No. 08

The Battle Between Cost and Quality in the Coffee Industry

Coffee can be cheap, it can be good, and it can be fair; however, it cannot be all three.

Sponsor

The battle between cost and quality is an eternal struggle for most businesses; however, you see it so acutely in the coffee business because it is present daily and often hourly. We see it play out so clearly on the micro level at coffee shops.

The stress on the barista’s faces as they decide if they serve you the over-extracted espresso or throw it away and make a new one. The worry lines on the shop manager’s forehead as he notices the brewed coffee has been sitting on the counter for three hours, and a regular walks in to order some. Does he serve the customer a coffee he knows has gone cold and lacks the nuance of flavor, or does he try to reduce his losses on the pot and risk losing a regular customer?

The fact is that coffee is an agricultural product, and thus, it has a built-in expiration date from the moment it is harvested. The clock begins ticking once the coffee is harvested, processed and dry-milled. Green (unroasted) coffee has one year before it is considered a “past crop, ” which severely reduces its value on the market. Once that coffee is roasted, it has been transformed and receives a new expiration date that the roaster decides. This date can be between 3 months and two years, depending on the packaging and the roaster’s threshold for quality.

Once that roasted coffee bag is opened, its shelf life has been reduced again to about twenty-four hours (if you’re a coffee shop), and once it is brewed, it’s reduced again to one hour. If the coffee has been made as an espresso, its shelf life is about two to five minutes. Theoretically, when a coffee shop brews a pot of coffee, they should only keep it for one to two hours before discarding what has not sold.

If you have a slow location, then you may try to stretch this rule, as costs can add up over time if you are dumping gallons of coffee every day. There are ways to mitigate this loss, like brewing less or even brewing individual cups to order if your location is empty. I understand the business owners’ predicament; however, selling less-than-fresh, poor-quality product is a short gain that may end up costing customers in the long term. I was a barista first, so my perspective will always be as a champion of the coffee. Most baristas feel this way. They prefer to serve excellent products and provide the best drinks they are capable of creating.

It is often a management or ownership decision to allow subpar coffees to be served. These are the daily minute battles; however, it also plays on a larger scale as green coffee costs rise and the tension between staying in business, raising prices and paying more becomes very taught. Roasters are currently amid this conundrum as they try to keep prices low for their customers while maintaining consistent quality.

Coffee can be cheap, it can be good, and it can be fair; however, it cannot be all three. If a coffee is good and cheap, you know it was not traded fairly. If a coffee is cheap and fair, it is likely not good. If coffee is good and fair, then you know it will not be cheap.

This is the constant tension in the coffee world between quality and cost. It all comes down to what you value as a consumer or what the roaster or retailer values as a brand and craft person. I’m always going to remake the shot, brew a fresh pot and buy green as fresh as possible as fairly as possible. The better higher quality standards we maintain the more value is added to the supply chain which benefits everyone.

Don’t miss Features, Reviews, News, and Recipes from top Restaurateurs!

Suggested roles: Restaurateur (e.g. manager, owner, cook, chef, sommelier, bartender, mixologist), PR (e.g. PR agency), Producer (e.g. winery, distillery), Marketer (e.g. ad buyer), Consultant, Journalist

Suggested interests: wine, spirits, food, recipes, cocktails

We don’t spam! Check out our Privacy Policy. You may manage your subscription here.

Don’t miss Features, Reviews, News, and Recipes from top Restaurateurs!

Suggested roles: Restaurateur (e.g. manager, owner, cook, chef, sommelier, bartender, mixologist), PR (e.g. PR agency), Producer (e.g. winery, distillery), Marketer (e.g. ad buyer), Consultant, Journalist

Suggested interests: wine, spirits, food, recipes, cocktails

We don’t spam! Check out our Privacy Policy. You may manage your subscription here.

Jake Leonti is a writer and food + beverage advisor working in New York City, and around the world. He has worked in the food + beverage industry for over 20 years. Anything that touches coffee, Jake has done it. Including: importing green coffee, blending, roasting, building brands, packaging and coffee houses, developing RTD beverages, syrups, full scale menus and overseeing international product launches. Jake is a member of the Roasters Guild, a certified MuMac trainer, Editor-in-Chief of CoffeeTalk Magazine and host of Food + Beverage Therapy podcast. F+B Therapy is a food and beverage consulting company that offers an array services including: opening cafes to menu creation, staff training, product development, branding and business strategy. F+B is based in the Northeast with offices and training labs in New York and Miami. Clients range from 100 year old international brands to owner operator small businesses across the US, Europe, Australia, South and Central America.

4 comments on “The Battle Between Cost and Quality in the Coffee Industry

  1. Poornima Jairaj

    As a farmer, this is an insight into the cafe business. What is the solution in a recyclable world?

    • Jake Leonti

      Hi @Poornima Jairaj, thanks for your comment. Unfortunately there is no single solution that can solve the problem. Every producing country faces different, unique challenges that create disproportionate value in their products and work. Meanwhile there are no true incentives for roasters to pursue this. The coffee companies that push for a more equitable supply chain do so because of their owner personal beliefs, ethics and the comforting fact that many consumers care about fairness and quality and are willing to pay the cost.

  2. Since green coffee has such a long life, it makes sense to buy locally roasted coffee. Does it also make sense to roast your own coffee? Should restaurants be considering that option? This may make for an interesting article.

    • Jake Leonti

      Thanks for your comment Emiliano! A coffee company does a lot more for a restaurant than roast coffee. Service and training are part of the package and roasting alone is its own discipline and profession. However, there are others that would like to roast there own for different reasons. There is a lot more to be said so I will make this the focus of my next article.

What did you think of this article? We'd love to hear from you!

Sponsor
%d bloggers like this: