Vineyard Romigberg, Alois Lageder
Reviews Vol. 26 No. 11 Wine

The Dozen – Accent on Italy

It's time to enjoy the food-friendly whites from northern Italy.


For years, Italian red wines over-shadowed the whites, often with good reason. That is no longer the case. Today, the Italian import market is full of enjoyable, well-made whites at all price levels made from a couple of dozen indigenous grape varieties. This edition of The Dozen features several of them, mainly from northern Italy.

But also to be noted are two reds and a white blend from the excellent Ventoux/Vaucluse producer, Chêne Bleu, as well as an entry-level red from Portugal and a couple of interesting Chilean wines from the Limari Valley.

2021 Garofoli “Supèra” Verdicchio di Matelica ($16). Lots of green fruitiness, somewhat lean but with a very supple framework.

2021 La Valentina Colline Pescaresi Pecorino ($18). Very nice juicy and spicy flavors without being sweet – apples, fleshy plums, a little ginger.

2021 Surrau “Branu” Vermentino di Gallura ($20). Enticing, somewhat rustic green fruits with enough spritz and acidity to allow them to be paired with fuller-bodied foods.

2020 Concha y Toro “Marques de Casa Concha” Valle del Limari Chardonnay ($21). Very fruity, a little grapey, and fruity sweet.

2020 Alois Lageder “Versalto” Dolomiti Pinot Bianco ($28). Enjoyable, tangy, but full-bodied fruit with lots of citrus, some tannins, and good minerality.

2020 Inama “Carbonare” Soave Classico ($30). Very juicy and fruit-forward – citrus and other tropical flavors – with an enjoyable metallic minerality.

2021 Marco Felluga “Russiz Superiore” Collio Sauvignon ($31). Lovely floral aromas and fruitiness – mainly ripe apple, pear, and quince – with good acidity and fruit-peel-tasting tannins.

2017 Chêne Bleu “Aliot” Vaucluse Blanc ($58). This is an enchanting blend – mainly Roussanne and Grenache Blanc – with lots of lush tropical fruitiness, yet spicy and well-structured.

2020 Sogrape “Silk & Spice” Portugal Red Blend ($12). A barbecue wine – lightly sweet, lightly spicy with good savory accents and lots of dusty tannins.

2019 Concha y Toro “Marques de Casa Concha” Valle del Limari Pinot Noir ($21). An enjoyable, light-bodied, fresh-fruity Pinot with cherry and cola flavors, a lean finish, and lots of food friendliness.

2014 Chêne Bleu “Abélard” Ventoux Rouge ($90). Juicy, slightly tangy red and black fruits with a long finish that is tight and leathery with oak notes and rich tannins.

2014 Chêne Bleu “Héloïse” Vaucluse Rouge ($90). Brooding flavors of red and purple fruits, such as plums and dark cherries, with earthy, savory notes and mild tannins.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from As more wineries are shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.

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Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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