In the U.S., we have mostly concentrate on drinking wines made from southern French, Italian or Spanish heritage grapes, but American winegrowers have increasingly shown interest in grapes more commonly grown in Alsace, the Moselle and Rhine regions of German or along the Danube in Austria. (Yes, also in Italy, in the very northern Alto Adage region bordering Austria).
Most of these varieties – Riesling and Gewürztraminer, in particular – can be quite fragrant, floral and fruity and are often made into sweeter wines. But they can also be quite dry and quite delicious as table wines.
This The Dozen highlights a handful from two producers who grow them in the Finger Lakes and – surprise – Napa Valley.
The above photo of fall vineyards along Lake Keuka is provided courtesy of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery.
2023 Dr. Konstanin Frank Finger Lakes Dry Riesling ($19). Love this wine – lively, well-structured, a lot of metallic minerality and a structure very similar to a good Chablis.
2023 Dr. Konstanin Frank Finger Lakes Semi-Dry Riesling ($19). Good acidity to balance the slightly sweet fruitiness – try with choucroute garnie and cooked apples.
2022 Alois Lageder “Porer” Mitterberg Pinot Grigio ($30). Pleasant wine with light pear fruitiness and good atructure.
2023 Dr. Konstantin Frank “Eugenia” Finger Lakes Dry Riesling ($35). Crisp and tart apple flavors, a little tangy and minerally, yet with traditional Riesling aromas and a fairly full body.
2022 Bouchaine Vineyards Carneros Gewürztraminer ($45). As with the Riesling (below), the fragrances are toned down to concentrate on the apple/quince flavors and its nice, stony minerality.
2022 Bouchaine Vineyards Carneros Riesling ($45). Hints of Riesling’s fruity oils with some eau-de-vie aromas – a somewhat subdued wine.
2023 Bouchaine Vineyards Los Carneros Alsatian Blend ($50). Like a Sauvignon Blanc in structure, but fruity and floral with some spiciness.
NV Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery “Célèbre” Finger Lakes Riesling Cremant ($25). A very satisfying sparkler with mellow apple, white grape and almost vanilla flavors, it is nicely tart around the edges.
2021 William Hill North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon ($16). Nice savory berry flavors – blackberries and huckleberries – with dry herbs and dry finish.
2019 La Valentina “Spelt” Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Reserve ($23). Complex but well-balanced with lots of zippy tannins and acidity, lean cherry fruitiness and gamey and earthy notes.
2021 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($25). Good, basic Chianti Classico – lean and savory with dried fruitiness; a wine meant to go with red meats and red sauces.
2021 Eleven Eleven “Destin Vineyard” Oak Knoll Syrah ($90). Lots of savory, earthy flavors in the northern Rhone style with lovely dark berry flavors and walnutty tannins – superb!.
Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.
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