Meadows of Valpolicella
Appellations The Dozen Vol. 25 No. 01

The Dozen – Wines with Vigor

We are used to red wines being concentrated and powerful but there are sometimes white wines that also fit this category without being overly alcoholic or overly aggressive.

Whites as well as reds can have power and complexity. We’ve got both.

By Roger Morris

We are used to red wines being concentrated and powerful, which is often cited as “the Robert Parker effect,” but there are sometimes white wines that also fit this category without being overly alcoholic or overly aggressive.

We have both in today’s Dozen, and, overall, it’s a pretty impressive collection of wines worth our strict attention.

2019 Garofoli “Serra del Conte” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi ($12). Very nice – simple, lightly creamy green fruits with moderate body and a crisp finish.

2019 Garofoli “Macrina” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi ($15). Good green fruit and full-bodied structure.

2019 La Valentina Pecorino Colline Pescaresi ($16). Fragrant and floral and with hints of whey – medium body, good acidity.

2018 WillaKenzie Yamhill Carlton Chardonnay ($34). I love this wine. Like some white Burgundies, its minerality is dominant and not a secondary characteristic as it usually is, giving the fruit that haunting character one often gets in eau-de-vies. It’s assertive in a good way and has good aging potential.

2018 Talbott “Sleepy Hollow, Block 50 South” Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay ($60). Very nice juicy apples on light toast – delicious to sip, but just as enjoyable at the table.

2018 Bergstrom “Sigrid” Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($96). Quite complex with vibrant, juicy, spicy apples and citrus flavors, full-bodied, with tart acidity in the finish.

2018 Marchesi di Gresy Barbera d’Asti ($19). Clean, polished, tart cherry flavor with a tangy finish.

2011 Quinta da Ponte “Pedrinha” Dao Reserva ($22). Pleasantly piquant fruitiness with a hint of balsamic and light raspy tannins in the finish.

2019 Marchesi di Gresy “Martinga” Langhe Nebbiolo ($26). Enjoyable tart cherry fruit with savory notes, medium weight, long on the palate.

2017 Marchesi di Gresy “Martinga” Barbaresco ($65). Typically light-bodied – elegant, yet assertive – with lovely cherry fruit and lots of raspy tannins.

2016 Louis M. Martini “Lot No. 1” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($179). Massive, dense and concentrated, yet not overly tannic to the taste, with purple fruits – mainly cassis and blueberry – and good closing acidity. Definitely for fans of Parker-style big reds.

2008 Sant’Antonio “Lilium Est” Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva ($185). Delicious, complex and powerful blend of fresh cherry and blackberry flavors along with dried fruit flavors. Give it some time to open up by decanting before drinking. Of course, it still can age more years in the cellar.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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