The Dozen This Month

The Provence Gaze

A casual look at this region of both wild and sophisticated wines.

Even today, get away from the bright lights of its sophisticated coastal cities, and Provence has a wild and ancient feel to it that is reflected in its wines, even those elegant pink wines in fancy bottles.

Let’s taste a few.

The photo above is home to a lovely rosé – Domaine Gassier.

2024 Old Vine Ranch California Sauvignon Blanc ($20). More tropical than green fruits with a touch of oxidation.

2022 Bouchaine Napa Valley Chardonnay ($50). Good weight, yet lively on the palate with flavors of apple, banana and caramel, good acidity and a long, golden finish.

2021 Château Malherbe “Selecion de Parcelles No 19 and No. 20” Côtes de Provence White ($55).  Nice aged-apple toastiness with good finishing acidity.

2024 Roseblood Côteaux Varois Rosé ($27). Classic Provence style – mellow orange and grapefruit flavors with a tart finish.

2024 Gassier “6 Pas du Moins” Côtes de Provence Sainte Victoire Rosé ($35). A lovely wine with lilting yet complex flavors of orange and other citrus, light and lean with great minerality.

2023 Old Vine Ranch California Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). Fruit-forward with good creamy blackberry fruit – smooth with mild tannins and lightly sweet.

NV Old Vine Ranch “Lot No. 75” California Red Wine ($20). Mostly red fruit, a little fruity sweet, tangy and a trifle thin in body.

2020 La Selvanella Chianti Classico Riserva ($39). Good vitality with lots of gamy flavors, very long on the palate and with a load of dusty tannins.

2022 Bouchaine Napa Valley Pinot Noir ($50). Nice dark cherry and plummy flavors with a hint of red Vermouth, good structure and length, and pleasant tannins.

2022 Château Malherbe Côtes de Provence Red Wine ($55).  A Syrah-dominant blend that is elegant yet with a touch of edginess – mature blackberry flavors with savory, earthy and leathery notes.

2020 Black Ankle “Phyllite” Frederick County, MD, Red Wine ($74). A Syrah that is very Rhone-like with dark red-berry flavors, earthy and cask notes with a savory finish.

2013 Appasionata “Fortissimo” Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir ($163). A fine aged Pinot Noir late released – lovely mature flavors of cherries and plums, bright acidity with good metallic minerality. A special occasion wine.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com. As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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