The Dozen Vol. 26 No. 11

The Dozen – World Pinot

Pinot Noir

Around the globe, Pinot Noir tastes the same – but different.

By Roger Morris

Pinot Noir is wonderful in being the same but different at the same time – almost always instantly recognizable but often with huge differences in tastes and texture.

This issue of The Dozen is all Pinot – from seven different countries, 12 different regions, five different vintages and goodness knows how many different clones. Prices range from $18 to $75, and there is even a bubbly in the lineup.

NV Ferghettina “Eronero” Franciacorta Rosé Brut ($35). 100% Pinot – light cherry and cake-icing flavors, good bubble intensity, great minerality, mildly assertive and very refreshing.

2019 Falernia Valle de Elqui Reserva Pinot Noir ($18). Crisp, fragrant, elegant, with cherry and spicy flavors.

2020 Prosper Maufaux Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge ($26). Flavorful fruit with an almost “whizzy,” tangy finish.

2020 Albert Bichot Bourgogne “Vieilles Vignes” Pinot Noir ($27). Some potato bin aromas, though pleasant ones, that are repeated, underlying the fresh cherries, on the palate, with a hint of greenness and a lean finish.

2018 Paul O’Brien Umpqua Valley Pinot Noir ($32). Mix of fresh black cherries and savory dried herbs and earthiness – full-bodied but lively.

2019 Yerling Station Yarra Valley Pinot Noir ($34). Lean and long with exotic fruitiness, some baking spices and nice tannins.

2020 Franz Haas Alto Adige Pinot Nero ($40). On the light side with tangy cherry fruit and a lovely, long finish that cuts through the dusty tannins.

2016 Marchesi Pancrazi “Villa di Bagnolo” Toscano Pinot Nero ($46). Very good food wine – mature but not overripe cherry fruit with some savory, earthy notes and barrel flavors.

2021 Hamilton Russell Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Pinot Noir ($48). From South Africa, it begins with light fruitiness that segues into a crisp, quite gamey, lightly tannic finish.

2019 Pegasus Bary North Canterbury Pinot Noir ($51). Very flavorful fresh cherries, a little tangy – and could be a little crisper with the finish.

2021 En Route “Les Pommiers” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($56). Very nice, with good cherry juiciness, hints of cream, slightly spicy, crisp finish – fresh but with substance.

2020 FEL “Savoy Vineyard” Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($75). Ripe black raspberries and cherries with bright acidity, medium weight, freshness and long on the palate.

Prices listed are generally SRP or from As more wineries are now shipping direct-to-consumer, check the winery website if you can’t find a bottle in your retail store.

Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for The World of Fine Wine, Drinks Business, Meininger's Wine Business International, Wine Enthusiast and other publications in the U.S. and Europe.

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